Deep in the heart of the Thar Desert is Jaisalmer, one of the last princely bastions in the region. Founded on what was the crossroad of lucrative trade routes, this remote settlement came to be celebrated for the valour of its rulers, and for the aesthetic sense represented by their palaces and havelis. The rich merchants engaged stone-craftsmen who worked with greate diligence on the sandstone mansions they built, filling up facades with sculptural filigree, screen windows, delicate pavilions and beautiful balconies. These veritable art-museums are still inhabited, and their colourful celebrations and festivals have placed